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CET "Neva" |
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 CET Neva tours . mountaineering, climbing, trekking, ski tours, kayaking, raftingPamir, Peak Ismail Somoni (ex-Communism, 7495m) and Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m)
Peak Ismail Somoni (ex-Communism), formerly known as Peak Stalin, is the highest summit in the former Soviet Union. At 7495m high, it dominates the complicated geography of the Pamirs . Lying across the now independent republics of Central Asia, the Pamirs form the western end of the Himalaya, to the north of the Hindu Kush. Peak Somoni is part of a knot of inaccessible mountains in the Republic of Tadjikistan - a final flourish of the Himalaya before they peter out into the vast steppes of Central Asia. Peak Somoni, which sometimes is erroneously referred to Peak Garmo, towers over the joint of two mountain ranges, Peter the First Ridge (latitudinal) and Academy of Sciences Ridge (meridional), on the North-West Pamir. This was the former USSR highest peak, its neighbour, Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m) standing in 12km to the North from Peak Somoni, took the 4th place.
Three glaciers, Fortambek, Moskvina and Valter flow down from the North slope of the Peak Somoni. The Base Camp (4200 m) is installed on a grassy glade, Moskvina Meadow, between Valter and Moskvina glaciers. From here a number of routes leads to Peak Somoni, Peak Korjenevskoy and to other summits of the region. Here exists, as well, one of marvels of the nature, the Great Pamir Snow Plateau, a flat glacier surface of 12x3 km2 elevated up to more than 6000-meter altitude.
  
Before to get start to the Peak Somoni, climbers make acclimatization ascents of lesser mountains, Peaks Vorobiova (5691m), Chetyrekh (6299m, the name means Peak of Four) and Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). From their summits picturesque views of the great mountain node are opened from various points. The mountain is Himalayan in stature and Alpine in nature, featuring numerous walls, faces, ridges, long glaciers, towering seracs, and a summit high in the realms of hypoxia.
Peak of Four ascent. In the High Pamir,between Peaks Korjenevskoy and Communism, is a good nontechnical acclimatization climb. From Moskvina base camp, it can be done in several days, heading up the glacial moraine as if to the "Borodkin" route, then left up the distinct broad ridge at the cirque"s head.
Peak Korjenevskoy ascent. This peak is also climbed from the base camp at Moskvina Glacier. The route from BC is via a scree slope, then ascending a steep knife-edged ridge, the center one of the three prominent ridges leading to the summit. Most of the climb is on snow.
Peak Communism ascent. Before 1990 not many non-Soviet-bloc climbers had visited the region, and nearly all the routes had been established by Russian and East European climbers. Now the mountains has received a great many Western ascents, mostly by commercial groups onThis route on Peak Communism"s north side is approached from the Moskvina Glacier and is one of two standard routes on Peak Communism.
The "Borodkin" route, which requires crossing below an icefall and then climbing some technical rock sections, ascends the Borodkin Ridge to 6096 m, then drops 300 m to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau. This route has no so technical difficulties. But! It is long, takes several days for an acclimatized team and needs several camps installed in advance, additionally there exist dangers of crevasses on the glacier, of avalanches, of mountain sickness and invasion of bad weather at high altitude.
Description the "Borodkin" route (right on the photo)
Up on the Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope (4 - 5 h). Camp (5300 m)
Going up on the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier opposite to ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross the ice plateau early morning(usually will start at three or four a.m.) and with maximum speed. The further way goes on the rocks with ascent to the crest. Time of going is about 6-7 hours, 3-4 fixed ropes.
Camp (5300 m) - Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 h)
Technically, the whole part of the way is not difficult. Wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The ropes are fastened in the ice - places. The camp is located in mould. The time of going is about 5 - 6 hours, 4-6 fixed ropes.
Camp (5800 m) - Camp (6100 m). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 h)
Early morning start and ascent to the "(breast) two-headed" summit. Crevasses are possible. Going in roped-party. Traverse to the left after coming out to the top with descent to Great Pamir Snow Plateau. Time of going is 4-5 hours, one fixed rope.
Camp (6900 m) - northern ice-snow slope of the Peak Dushanbe (7-8 h)
Start early moning. Crevasses covered by snow are possible below and above the next camp 6900m. Snowy ascent is very steep, there can be some pitch of ice. Going in roped-party. There is a danger of snow-slip descent. Ascent is not technically difficult. After ascent to Peak Dushanbe (app. 7000 m) descent to the camp (6900m) Time of going is 7-8 hours.
Camp (6900 m) - the Summit - back to Camp ( 6900 m) (8-9 h)
Start early morning. Moving is in roped-party along steep snowy slope to the rocks. The ropes are fastened in the rocks. After rocks moving to "Somoni" (Communism) Peak along crest. Strong wind is possible. While descent one should pay attention to the snowy slope after rocks. In case of bad weather it is necessary to have marked flags for establishing on the way of itinerary. Expedition 2011 - schedule and cost (LIGHT Package) Period of the program: July - August Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting in airport, transfer to hotel. Day 2 Transfer from Dushanbe to Dzhirgital. Night in tent. Day 3 Flight to the Moskvin Meadow Base Camp (BC) - 4400m by helicopter. Day 4 Walking, preliminary acclimatisation round the Base Camp. Days 5, 6 Ascent of Peak Vorobiova (5685m). Night in tents at about 4900m. Returning to BC. Day 7 Rest in BC. Days 8, 9 Ascent to Peak Chetyrekh (6230m). Two nights in tents at 5100m and 5900m. Day 10 Climbing up to the top and returning down to BC. Days 11, 12 Rest in BC. Days 13-16 Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Three nights in tents at 5400m, 6300m and 6300m. Day 17 Returning to BC. Days 18, 19 Rest in BC. Days 20-24 Climbing Peak Somoni (7495m) via normal Borodkin"s route. Four nights in tents at 5200m, 6000m, 6900m, 6900m or 6000m. Day 25 Returning to BC. Days 26, 27 Reserve days. Day 28 Helicopter flight from BC to Dzhirgital. Transfer to Dushanbe. Night in hotel. Day 29 Flight to home.
Price per each participant - 1150 EUR, Dushanbe-Dushanbe. The price includes: - arranging necessary documents (permit, ecology tax, registration in immigration policy, attention: permits on the second top it is paid 80 EUR. in addition for 1 person; - transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe; - helicopter flights - Dzhirgital - BC (Moskvina glade)- Dzhirgital; - with 30kg/person luggage limit (overload payment . 3 EUR/kg); - accommodation in Dushanbe (private sector, 2 nights); - transfers Airport-Dushanbe-Airport; - use of the infrastructure of Base Camp (a place under tents, water, a toilet, electricity, a first-aid post). The price does not include: - the cost of visa support (30 EUR/p.p); - tajikistan visa (50 EUR/p.p.) Additional service in Base Camp: - accommodation in stationary small houses/tents 6,5 EUR/5 EUR/per day/for 1 person; - food in BC: a breakfast - 8 EUR, a dinner - 15 EUR, a supper - 15 EUR; - shower/a sauna - 3 EUR/ 5 EUR (visiting), a left-luggage office - 2,5 EUR /place; - refueling gas container (230 mg) - 3 EUR/ piece; - gas container (230 mg) new - 8 EUR/ piece (the discount 1,5 EUR for return used container) satellite phone, E-mail, a bar - under the price-list of camp; - rent high-altitude tents - 6 EUR/per day; - rent of mobile portable radio sets - 5 EUR/ pair day. Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting in airport, transfer to hotel.
Day 2 Flight to the Moskvin Meadow Base Camp (BC) - 4400m by helicopter.
Days 3, 4 Walking, preliminary acclimatisation round the Base Camp.
Days 5, 6 Ascent of Peak Vorobiova (5685m). Night in tents at about 4900m. Returning to BC.
Day 7 Rest in BC.
Days 8, 9 Ascent to Peak Chetyrekh (6230m). Two nights in tents at about 5100m and 5900m.
Day 10 Climbing up to the top and returning down to BC.
Days 11, 12 Rest in BC.
Days 13-16 Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Three nights in tents at 5400m, 6300m and 6300m.
Day 17 Returning to BC.
Days 18, 19 Rest in BC.
Days 20-24 Climbing Peak Somoni (7495m) via normal Borodkin"s route. Four nights in tents at 5200m, 6000m, 6900m, 6900m or 6000m.
Day 25 Returning to BC.
Days 26, 27 Reserve days.
Day 28 Helicopter flight from BC to Dushanbe. Night in hotel.
Day 29 Flight to home.
Price per each participant Dushanbe-Dushanbe - 1950 EUR (helicopter),
1750 EUR (car transfer Dushanbe - Djirgital).
The price includes:Payment for necessary permit on one Peak (more than 7000m) and formalities in Tajikistan; Accommodation in Dushanbe hotel (2*, 2 nights in DBL room); All surface transfers necessary for running the expedition; Helicopter flights to the Base Camp and back; Three meals in the Base Camp, basic food during the ascents(bringing a specific food preferred by you on high altitudes is welcome); Tents (for 2-4 persons) and equipment in the Base Camp ; Base Camp mess, cook; electricity 220V, 50HZ; Medical assistance and doctor in the Base Camp; Sauna and shower; service of guide . consultant; Overhead and organising expenses.
The price does not include:Payment for second 7000 peak (80 EUR./person), Invitation for obtaining the Tajik visa (the cost of visa support 30 EUR./p.p; Tajikistan visa 50 EUR./p.p., Accommodation & transfers in Moscow, cost of flights Moscow - Dushanbe and back (approx. 450-470 EUR.), excess luggage (more than 20kg) transplantation internal air lines and more then 30kg by helicopter (3 EUR. by 1 kg more); Rent of mountaineering equipment, Personal expenses, Porters Cost of unexpected premature evacuation, Insurance.
Flight helicopter schedule for 2011 (preliminary):
Dushanbe(Djirgital)- the Base Camp 22 Julio 24 Julio 29 Julio 31 Julio
Base Camp -Dushanbe(Djirgital) 15 Agosto 17 Agosto 22 Agosto 24 Agosto
(Please, buy your international flight tickets to/from Dushanbe - arrival: 1 day before the helicopter flight to Base Camp and departure: 2 days after helicopter flight from Base Camp)
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the price for mountain guide and how many members per one guide could be?
The cost is 48 EUR per day for a group up to 4 members, however the latter depends on qualification and physical form of the group.
For my guidance, what is porter"s services cost?
4200 m to 5300 m - 10 EUR/kg, 5300 m to 5800 m - 15 EUR/kg, 5800 m to 6300 m - 20 EUR/kg, for altitudes higher than 6300 m - 30 EUR/kg per 1 kg.
Can I stay for some extra days in Base Camp?
Yes. The cost of one extra day in BC is 40 EUR per person with full board.
 TRIP ITINERARY 2011 (1) - economical package
TRIP ITINERARY 2011 (2) - full services package
Equipment List
 booking form 2011
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