The region of Central Tian-Shan is situated in a node formed by China, Kazakhstan and Kirguizia frontiers. Kirguizian-Chineese boundary follows Meridional Range and stretching in latitudinal direction Kok-Shaal-Tau Range, but also latitudinal Sary-Djas Range sets up the border between Kirguizia on the south and Kazakhstan on the north (see the map of Kirguizia, click it to zoom). It is between Sary-Djas and Kok-Shaal that two branches of the Inylchek glacier lie, north and south, separated by short but high Tengri-Tag Range. West of Tengri-Tag they join to born Inylchek mainstream (see the Inylchek region map, zoom it also). It is in this mountain and political node that two most northern seven-thousanders of the Earth are situated: Khan-Tengri dominates the Tengri-Tag Range and Pobeda stands 20km farther south, in the Kok-Shaal-Tau.

    

     Being 69km long together with its south branch, Inylchek turns out to be one of the world longest glaciers of alpine type. Unique creation of the nature, lake on the North Inylchek west from Khan-Tengri, discovered by G. Merzbacher in 1902-1903, bars any way along the glacier, stretching from board to board of the glacier bed. It may be overcome by walking on its bottom only during a short one-two day period after that the water has found out ways through crevasses in the bottom and has gone down underneath the ice glacier body.

     Mysterious mirage of the Central Tian-Shan mountains, shimmering on the distant horizon, excited during centures imagination of local nomadic nationalities. Local toponyms reflect this attitude: Tian-Shan means "Sky Mountains" in Chinese, Tengri-Tag is "Mountains of Spirits" and Khan-Tengri - "Lord of Spirits" in Turkic languages.

      

Khan Tengri expedition 2011 - schedule and cost 

Day 1 Arrival to the Manas International Aiport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in hotel. 

Day 2 Transfer (460 km, about 8 hours) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (BC, 2100 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. 

Day 3 To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100m) by helicopter (45min.) Night in tents. 

Day 4 Primary acclimatization in BC. 

Day 5 To Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200m). 

Day 6 To Camp 2 (4800-5200m). 

Day 7 Return to BC. 

Day 8 Rest day. 

Day 9 To Camp 1 (4200m). 

Day 10 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

Day 11 Return to BC. 

Day 12 Rest day. 

Day 13 To Camp 1 (4200m). 

Day 14 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

Day 15 Khan-Tengri summit day: to the top and back to Camp 3. 

Day 16 Descent down to BC. 

Days 17 and 18 Rest/reserve days. 

Day 19 Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel. 

Day 20 Full day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 

Day 21 Flight to home. 

The best period for the expedition is July-August  

Cost of the non-guided expedition is 1395 EUR per person for a group of 4-5 participants 

Additional cost for guiding and porters service: 

mountain guide:  1 person - 1200 EUR; 2 persons - 750 EUR p/pax; 3 persons - 600 EUR p/pax 

porters:  BC - C1 - 2 EUR/kg; C1 - C2 - 8 EUR/kg; C2 - C3 - 16 EUR/kg 

Victory Peak expedition 2011 - schedule and cost 

Day 1 Arrival to the Manas International Aiport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in hotel. 

Day 2 Transfer (460 km, about 8 hours) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (BC, 2100 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. 

Day 3 To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100m) by helicopter (45min.) Night in tents. 

Day 4 Primary acclimatization in BC. 

Day 5 To Victory Peak Camp 1 (4600m). 

Day 6 To Camp 2 (5300m). 

Day 7 Descent down to BC. 

Day 8 Rest day. 

Day 9 To Camp 1 (4600m). 

Day 10 To Camp 2 (5300m). 

Day 11 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

Day 12 Descent down to BC. 

Day 13 and 14 Rest days. 

Day 15 To Camp 1 (4600m). 

Day 16 To Camp 2 (5300m). 

Day 17 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

Day 18 To Camp 4 (6400m). 

Day 19 To Camp 5 (7100m). 

Day 20 Victory Peak summit day: go up to the top and back down to Camp 5. 

Day 21 Descent to Camp 2. 

Day 22 Return to BC. 

Days 23 and 24 Rest/reserve days. 

Day 25 Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel. 

Day 26 Full day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 

Day 27 Flight to home. 

The best period for the expedition is July-August 

Cost of the non-guided expedition is 1395 EUR per person for a group of 4-5 participants 

Additional cost for guiding service:

mountain guide 1 person - 1600 EUR; 2 persons - 900 EUR p/pax; 3 persons - 750 EUR p/pax 

The cost includes: 

- all necessary administrative fees and taxes in Kirghizia (including registration with local Rescue Party, frontier zone and climbing permits, ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC, official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter, if needed); 

- meeting/seeing-off at airport in Bishkek; 

- all surface transfers necessary for normal realization of the tour; 

- helicopter flight to BC and back with personal load up to 30kg included; 

- accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast); 

- accommodation in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and BC "South Inylchek" (full board);  

- shower and sauna in BC "South Inylchek"; 

- consultancy service of local guides in BC; 

- consultancy of doctor and first medical aid; 

- long-distance radio telecommunication service; 

- rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents. 

The cost does not include:

- airport taxes; 

- cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgiz); 

- unexpected premature evacuation; cost of visa; insurance; 

- rent of mountaineering equipment; porters; drinks and personal expenses. 

For your guidance, cost of additional services: 

(1) extra day in Bishkek (double-room Guest House, 30 EUR p/p); 

(2) rent of tents for high camps - 50 EUR per program;

(3) gas cartridges (220 ml, butane/propane) - 5 EUR per one; 

(4) international call by satellite telephone - 3 EUR/min; 

(5) Internet - 20 EUR/hour.

 Flight helicopter schedule for 2011 (preliminary): July 3, 10, 17, 24, 27, 31; August 3, 6, 9, 13, 20, 27.

     

Khan Tengri expedition - schedule 22.07 - 11.08 2011 

July 22 Arrival to the Manas International Aiport in Bishkek, capital of Kirghizia. Transfer and overnight in hotel. 

July 23 Transfer (460 km, about 8 hours) from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (BC, 2100 m). Accommodation in two person tents. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. 

July 24 To Base Camp on the South Inylchek glacier (4100m) by helicopter (45min.) Night in tents. 

July 25 Primary acclimatization in BC. 

July 26 To Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200m). 

July 27 To Camp 2 (4800-5200m). 

July 28 Return to BC. 

July 29 Rest day. 

July 30 To Camp 1 (4200m). 

July 31 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

August 1 Return to BC. 

August 2 Rest day. 

August 3 To Camp 1 (4200m). 

August 4 To Camp 3 (5800m). 

August 5 Khan-Tengri summit day: to the top and back to Camp 3. 

August 6 Descent down to BC. 

August 7/8 Rest/reserve days. 

August 9 Flight back to Karkara Base Camp by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel. 

August 10 Full day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 

August 11 Flight to home. 

Cost of the guided expedition is 1795 EUR per person 

The cost includes:

- all necessary administrative fees and taxes in Kirghizia (including registration with local Rescue Party, frontier zone and climbing permits, ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC, official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter, if needed); 

- meeting/seeing-off at airport in Bishkek; 

- all surface transfers necessary for normal realization of the tour; 

- helicopter flight to BC and back with personal load up to 30kg included; 

- accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast); 

- accommodation in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and BC "South Inylchek" (full board);  

- shower and sauna in BC "South Inylchek"; 

- Mountain guide: 

  for group of 1-3 pax - 1 guide; 

  for group of 4-6 pax - 1 guide and 1 guide"s assistant; 

  for group of 7-10 pax - 1 guide and 2 guide"s assistants; 

- installed high altitude camps: 4200, 5200, 5800 (3 person in tent); 

- group mountaineering equipment (ropes, gas, gas stoves and cooking set); 

- food for high altitude camps; 

- consultancy of doctor and first medical aid; 

- long-distance radio telecommunication service; 

- rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents. 

The cost does not include:

- airport taxes; 

- cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgiz); 

- unexpected premature evacuation; 

- cost of visa; insurance;

- rent of mountaineering equipment; 

- porters; drinks and personal expenses.