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Classic technical climbs in the Caucasus

     By the Caucasus one means that mountain system which stretches from the Black Sea in the north-west to the Caspian Sea in the south-east. It forms the geographical divide between Europe and Asia.

Elbrus region: Ushba Chain

A classic amongst classics! One of the world"s most famous mountains. Not surprisingly the dream of every visitor to the Caucasus, but it is a hard mountain and not easy to capture. Good snow conditions make the two steep ice faces easier, but in late summer bare ice conditions produce the opposite effect. In each case one must climb the long, sharp-edged, frightfully exposed and mostly double corniced summit ridge - often one"s ice axe makes a peep-hole through the snow. So, though classic, it is as well not to underestimate the  difficulties of this popular excursion, particularly as the descent down the route of ascent may involve even greater difficulties and hazards!

         Schurovsky Peak, 4249m

A major Nprth Face in an area that teems with breathtaking North Faces. This long, difficult and varied rock route could be a place to start but it has objective dangers that can be underestimated. The descent is by the South-East Ridge, a good climb in its own right described at the end of this chapter.

         Jantugan, 3991m

This wonderful ice climb up the magnificent pyramid of Jantugan has one aesthetic flaw in that higher up it quits the face and moves onto the East Shoulder of the mountain. A direttissima up the almost vertical summit wall offers an opportunity for daredevils to raise this moderately difficult route by several grades.

One of the great Caucasus classics and the line of the first ascent. Hats off to those old British climbers and their redoubtable Swiss guides! What a mountain, what a route! Here everything comes together: height, length, logic, difficulties - all the criteria are tremendous. Snow and ice predominate, with rock sections merely contributing to completeness.

One of the really big rock ridges in the world. One is entitled to say that in view of its length, height, character and demands. And its close proximity to the sinister seeming ice of the North Face gives it an addition tingling fascination.

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