2. North Face

 Grade: 3B

 First Ascent: J. Tschervinka, I. Valtar, V. Schmida and M. Jaschkivski, September 1961

 Starting Point: A bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Bashkara Glacier.

Approach

From CampJantugan, follow the track along the upper AdylsuValley. After a shepherds. hut and a tent site, a small bridge is reached which leads to the right bank of the River Adylsu. After a short, steep step, gain a magnificent patch of meadow. This is the Green Bivouac, a small bivouac hit which can accommodate about ten people, but now is destroyed by an avalanche . 2-2,5 hours from CampJantugan. From the Green Bivouac, ascend a path into the hollow between the left lateral moraine of the Bashkara Glacier and the northern spur of Jantugan. Then follow the moraine to its end. Possible bivouac site.

Ascent 

From the moraine bivouac, ascend the hollow between the moraine and an outlying rock ridge. A small, steep glacier flows in from the left below the North Face. Ascend this glacier until you are in the summit fall line. Climb straight up the left side of the Norht Face, keeping somewhat to the left higher up, on the snow bolster of the East Ridge below the summit tower. From the bolster, climb straight up an easy section of snow ridge, then traverse right over a snow slope to a snow and ice couloir (stones, belay) and an isolated standing rock. Climb straight up from the rock up the right side of the steep couloir to the easy, broken rocks of the South Ridge. Here turn right and cross 20-30m of easy ridge to the summit. 6-8 hours from the moraine bivouac.

Descent See Route 2A.

3. East Ridge from the North 

  In sunny weather this climb provides a wonderfully varied snow and ice expedition. It has icefalls, steep gullies, a crevassed plateau and a final exposed ridge leading to an elegant, if diminutive, summit with a maximum panorama. Take a care in the descent gully - poor snow cover means stonefall!

Grade: 2A

First Ascent: O.Aristov, G. Deberl, L.Nadeshdin and W.Zeidler, August 1935

Starting Point: The Green Bivouac.

Approach See Route 3B.

Ascent

From the Green Bivouac, ascend the ridge of the right to platforms at its end known as the Snow Bivouac. From the Snow Bivouac, move to the left and ascend a steep slope to the middle of Jankuat Glacier. Now ascend the glacier in the direction of the two rock towers which are located on the connecting ridge between Jantugan (right) and Gumatchi (left). After turning some big crevasses, ascend a steep snow slope to the JantuganPass, left or right of the big rock towers (big hanging icefalls on the right of the rock towers). Possible bivouac site. 3-4 hours from Green Bivouac.

From the JantuganPass, move south-west to gain the Jantugan Plateau and traverse this (hidden crevasses) below the southern slopes of the East Ridge. Cross the first scree couloir on the southern slopes of the East Ridge. Cross the first scree couloir on the southern slopes and  move across into the second one. Climb up this to the shoulder of the East Ridge. From the shoulder, climb to the left over scree and continue up a snow slope, which is bounded on the left by rocks. Then climb 30m up a steep, snow and ice rise on to a snow bolster. The rise can also be turned via the easy rocks on its left side or over the rock and ice boundary. From the bolster, climb straight up, at first up an easy section of snow ridge, then traverse a snow slope to the right to below a snow and ice couloir (stones, belay) by an isolated standing rock. From the rock, climb straight up  the right side of the steep couloir on the easy, broken rocks of the South Ridge. Now move to the right for 20-30m over the easy ridge to the summit. 4 hours from the JantuganPass.