Everest, Himalaya 1990, 1998, 2003, 2006
Kola Peninsula, Russia 2006 italy
Grand Teton and Long"s Peak, Nat.l Parks of USA 2006
Aconcagua, Argentina 2002
Aoraki - Mount Cook, New Zealand 2005
Kailash, Tibet 2005
Matterhorn, Switzerland 2005
Piolet d.Or , Jannu/Kumbhakarha, 7710, NF, HIMALAYA 2004
Аrarat, Turkey 2004
Fuji, Japan 2004
Mont Blanc, France 1993, 2004
Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain 2001
El Capitan and Half Dome, Yosemite Nat.l Park in USA 2000
Eiger Wall, Switzerland 1997
Dhaulagiri, Himalaya 1996
Communism and E. Korjenevskoy, Pamir
Pamir . August 1996
The only Central Pamir expedition in summer 2002
Khan-Tengri and Victory, Tien-Shan
Muztag-Ata, Chinese Pamir
Elbrus, Central Caucasus 2004
Lenin, Pamir
North Pole
Troll Wall
"I was told that this road will lead me to the Ocean of
Death, and I turned back half-way. Since then
I am walking on crooked and lonely and
roundabout ways..."
A. Strugatski & B. Strugatski
The expedition was organized by CET Neva high venture travel agency (Center of Extreme Tourism), St. Petersburg, Russia
Sponsors: Petrospek, St. Petersburg, Russia, and Gallina Blanca, Spain
Expedition members: A.Moshnikov, CET Neva Director, expedition leader;
A. and N. Shustrovs, CET Neva guides;
K.Astanin, M.Gavrilov, E.Maiorov, N.Pimkin, D.Sergeev, G.Chunovkin, D.Shevelev - all ten are from St.Petersburg;
Ruta Kripaitite, Lithuania;
V.Ivanov and V.Stepanov, Novgorod.
Brothers A. and N. Shustrovs were CET Neva people at the time of the expedition. In December 1996 they left CET to set up their own tourist agency - Top Sport Travel, St. Petersburg, Russia.
The summit was reached on October 21, 1996 by A.Moshnikov (alone).
Russian team headed by St. Petersburgian Alexander Odintsov presses onward to the top on the north wall of Himalayan "7-thousander" Jannu (7710 m). The ascent is performed within the frame of the BIG WALLS . RUSSIAN WAY project. The current expedition is the second one . the previous attempt took place in last autumn. This year assault is sponsored by PANASONIC.
(See also the latest expedition news on website of one of the organizers, Andrew Yershov
Detailed description of all spring-2003 Everest"s events see on MountEverest.net)
Finnish-Russian Expedition Cho-Oyu 2000 is organized by the climbing association ERSH TRAVELS (Andrew Yershov, the head) at substantial support by CET Neva (Anatoly Moshnikov, the director). Mt. Cho-Oyu is planned to be ascended via the normal route from NW, from Tibet. In Nepal and Tibet the Expedition is served by Thamserku Trekking & Tibet Mountaineering Association. The Expedition is funded from personal resources of the participants. Three higher camps are planned: 6400m, 7000m and 7400m.
For several years there has been a lasting controversy in Western media concerning the Dutch climber, Bart Vos. His claims about making a solo ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1996 along a new route from the East, and summiting Mt. Everest alone in 1984 via the classic way from the South have been thrown into doubt. The debate has escalated over the past several weeks due to appearance of a book by Mariska Mourik, Dutch climber who was on the "84 Everest Expedition with Vos.
In 1996, a CET Neva expedition was also working on Dhaulagiri under the leadership of Anatoly Moshnikov, the agency director. Vos met our climbers both in the Base Camp and in higher camps. Then, when caught in a many day snowfall with Russians, they made a long and torturous journey back to the civilization of a small village called Marfa. In his book, among other claims, he recounts these episodes putting his Russian companions in a bad light.
Not once did the journalists attempt to involve Russians into the discussion. Recently they succeeded in their efforts. After 4 years (!) a wave of desultory recollections, chaotic opinions relating to different occasions, fragments of personal e-mails and quotations from Vos" book about Dhaulagiri began on RUNET (RUssian interNET). It did not miss CET Neva and in early March the quantity of e-mails to Anatoly Moshnikov on the subject (as he was the man to reach the summit that year and met Vos on the mountain, he looks like a main witness of prosecution in the case "world climbing community against Bart Vos") exceeded 50kb (20 printed pages)!
Being the site editor, I find the idea of taking part in this disgusting trial offensive. There is no pleasure in reading the fragments of the Vos book where he faked the ascent of one of the world"s tallest peaks and reveled in some features of his friends when they were not at their best. Also it is unpleasant to observe the frenzy of the journalists, as well as some climbers - alas - as they automatically tried to claw at one another when they got the claws into Vos. Of course, all of us are not angels, nor mountaineers. Maybe, in the fight against the elements somebody appears to be immodest. Maybe another one, who did not have the inner strength and volition to beat the last few metres of the mountain, was blaming others later, at his moment of physical exhaustion and phsycological depression. Maybe someone, afterwards when all the difficulties were behind, relaxed too much and drank too much alcohol. Are these topics worthy of one"s time, labor and writing talent (if it exists)? Do we go to the mountains to show, when we return, our worst sides over the world by means of high electron technologies? These "hot" facts and "spicy" interviews may be the journalists bread and butter, but should we strive to give it to them?
Sadly these days, staying out of the debate becomes harder and harder. The only thing we feel suitable for this site is A. Moshnikov"s statement on events surrounding Vos" claims and an article by the Duch journalist, Milja de Zwart from the March issue of Algemeen Dagblad. Additionally, Moshnikov"s personal account of the Dhaulagiri Expedition 1996 (it had been published in 1997) is available on our web pages.
Besides, we have inserted on this web-page several pictures of Dhaulagiri - White Mountain - as a reminder... a simbol...
For all the rest the reader is recommended to visit the sites mentioned in the M. de Zwart article.
S. Kalmykov
Special thanks to Nick Stopford who has improved the English in the articles above and below.
If some non-English expressions still persist, the only cause is my obstinacy.
S.K.
